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Climbing Competition Information

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Competitions and dates

Competitions:

What are the different types of climbing competitions? How are they scored?

Bouldering

In bouldering compeitions there are usually 4 routes, each worth 25 points. There are three mid-way holds that are worth 5, 10, and 15 points. They go in consecutive order, and a climber gets the points of the highest hold they reach without falling (the finish hold is worth 25 points). For each time you fall attempting to get about your high point, you loose 0.1 points. For example, if it took a climber three tries, but they finished the route, they would have a score of 24.8. In this way, a perfect score (achieved by flashing all 4 problems) would be 100

Sport

After Youth category C, all Sport competitions are lead climbed. They are scored

Speed

This is probably the division of competitive climbing that gets the least publicity, but it may be the most impressive to watch. In speed climbing, contestants race to scale a wall will odly shaped hold. Often, climbers wear kneepads, as it is common to use all parts of your body to get up a wall.

Psicobloc

Also known as the competition form of deep water soloing, there are very few competitions in this style. The most popularr one occurs in August in Park City, UT (in the Olymic training facility, where they errect a 65 ft structure over an olymic swimming pool). In DWS, you climb long routes (normally 40-80 feet) without protection, except for the water. The height, then time, are the two factors used in scoring Psicobloc competitions.

Leagues/divisions

There are a number of different organizations that run climbing competitions. Some hold compeitions year-round and across many different disciplines, while others may be focused on only bouldering. The two biggest ones are USAC (Usa Climbing) and IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing).